How do I know if my images have been successful for the Grand Slam? I've entered several last Friday but I still only have two ticks out of the 110? Am I doing something wrong ?

After 5 yrs of Celestron evolution SCT 8" telescope - on to seestar 30'pro - just started - all images via pixinsight from 2 to 3 hours of imaging at 60" frames per object. comments welcome ! see ya Robin out of lochristi Belgium back yard . A pleasure to see so much hard stuff feom before being handled automatically !!

昨晚天气晴朗，好好的，今晚就是云遮月。几年一遇的最小满月可惜了。

久违的晴天

虽然多云，但但难掩我激动的心情，迫不及待拿出尘封半个月的S30Pro，找了下调色盘星云，可惜时间太晚已经被淹没在城市的楼群中，于是我打开stellarium，虽然seestar的星图也很好用，但还是略逊于这种开源免费的大型天文软件，往唯一有窗口，的东南方天空60°到85°天空寻找，最终找到了她，试拍下，嘿，还挺好看呢 于是开拍，睡觉

Did any of you ever see, or can reconfirm that when checking your friend's followers list, you see a lot of users that are actually already your friends, but the app is showing them as available to follow? Now since when you open their profile you see that they are showing as your friends, that makes it a bug, isn't it?

Is the dual narrowband filter and light pollution filter of seestar s50 the same thing?seestar s50的双窄带滤镜和光害滤镜是一个东西吗？

For me recently I stack it in siril with 1x drizzle at .9 pixel fraction and force 32 bit. Then stretch it until the nebula is barely visible (depends on object) then use seti astro shapening, then graxpert. Then I remove the stars and stretch the starless image. Then split the color channels and in pixelmath combine the G and B channels, call it O. Then do O minus the R/2-4(depends) and then mess with these in GIMP or pixelmath until I get a result I like, from there mess with the colors in gimp, recombine with the stars and run it through graxpert again if needed

I just found a quick hack to the process. 😁😁😁 Were you doing the polar alignment this way: Going to advance setting, > mount mode > switch > get polar align deviation. Waiting for the seestar to open its arm, take 3 pictures, platesolve them, then telling you how much deviation you have, correcting, then going back to alt-az, waiting the arm to close. And doing this process 2 or 3 times until you get the proper alignment. This can easily takes 10-15minutes. Then STOP! Do the process once, get your polar deviation, correct it. Then kill the app process on your phone. And just relaunch the app. You will be able to click again on get polar align deviation without closing the arm. And voila, you just save the time the arm takes to open and close. 😁😁😁😁😁

I would like to suggest the introduction of a new option (to my knowledge not existent) where optionally the user can set a time interval for auto focusing during the acquisition. In my experience it does help, at least if the temperature is changing. I have seen a big reduction in FWHM in post processing after a manual stop, AF and then continue acquiring. I did that because I was looking and noticed an image deterioration. But it would be nice to be able to program this. All remote telescopes I have used have this option.