Deep Sky Photography
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物理书出现巨大bug

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mlp

Am I able to get closer views of an object on my S30 with just its tripod?or do I need an EQ tripod? or do I need to learn how to use an editing software?

I want to try to get more close up views of objects , how can I try or start doing it? These are my latest captures as an example. I like the aspect of seeing the object I'm looking for as the mainstream if that makes sense. Any information is gladly appreciated!
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Zhad

users are targeting my work as AI generated ROFL!!!!?

EDIT: I got in touch with ZWO support, they were very reactive and my images were reinstated! Hi. Since I am here I have been very attentive about the usage of AI generation, when I see it, I automatically report it. Sometimes I left comment to educate other people that could take AI images as the real thing.. Now users are targeting me (as a petty vendetta I guess) for using generative AI and some of my images have been set to private.... I never used generative AI, please reach out to me if you would like the source XISF file of ANY of my images, I will be very happy to provide them... In the meantime I ask ZWO to either reinstate my images or I will leave this place to focus on Astrobin, meaning that this website will be closer to facebook / AI brainrot than a real astronomy website. Do not let idiocracy in!! Here are the images targeted so far : again, for each of these I have a Pixinsight project that I will be happy to submit for review :) you could go back each step and see exactly what i did. Also, the plate solving on this website catch plenty of stars in all of these images. Do not let the pitchforks and torches win
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stxmdy

How do i fix the error with overexposuring and error with not enough stars?

The option on seestar s30 to save each frame doesn't work and i'm stuck with enhancing images for at least half an hour
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为什么我的赤道仪会脱线?

900mm望远镜,之前5秒不脱线,现在一直脱线。空乘完美,没有绕线扯线,天顶区域,盲对极轴。
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stxmdy

I'll try to photograph some galaxy tonight.

Feel free to give me some tips, because i just got the seestar s30 and don't know much about the seestar app
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AstroSingularity

Should I use a 6.3 focal reducer?

So I use a celestron 6se with a asi 533mc should I use my 6.3 focal reducer when shooting galaxy's? It gathers more light but it also makes the image smaller so just curious if anyone that has more knowledge then me on this topic if I should or should not use the 6.3 reducer.
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JarKar

Astro 3D using ChatGPT based on GAIA data.

After several attempts we (ie. me & Chat 🤣) arrived to quite useful command template. Here it is: Create a wall-eye stereogram from the attached astronomical image. Preserve exactly: * original brightness, * contrast, * colors, * natural noise, * star halos, * object scale, * image proportions. Do not perform: * sharpening, * noise reduction, * HDR processing, * Local Contrast Enhancement, * saturation changes, * generation of new structures. Before generating the stereogram, remove 50–70% of the faintest background stars (the smallest stellar profiles), while preserving all stars that are important to the structure of the main object. Star depth: * apply GAIA Natural Depth, * nearest stars receive the largest parallax, * more distant stars receive proportionally smaller parallax, * maintain a continuous depth gradient, * avoid grouping stars into flat depth layers, * preserve the intrinsic spatial structure of open clusters. Nebula depth: * treat nebulae as volumetric objects, * bright Hα regions slightly projected forward, * dark dust lanes slightly recessed, * gas filaments distributed across multiple depth layers, * preserve all faint structures and dust features, * avoid the “cut-out sticker” appearance. Stereogram composition: * place the main object exactly at the center, * no vertical displacement between left and right images, * identical photometry in both panels, * side-by-side stereo pair, * optimized for parallel viewing (wall-eye). Parameters: * type: GAIA Natural Depth, * strength: 140% of natural parallax, * stellar depth: high, * nebula depth: medium, * depth-gradient smoothness: maximum, * viewing comfort: high. Priority: Astronomical realism > 3D effect strength. If there is a conflict between stereoscopic impact and realism, choose realism. Avoid CGI appearance, artificial 3D modeling, and flat 2D layers. The final result should resemble a realistic three-dimensional observation of the night sky while preserving full photometric fidelity to the original image.
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Doimii

How do I use the other filters on my Seestar s30pro?

I discovered yesterday that I can manually add the LP filter. But how do I add the others?
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RamKai

What should I look at tonight?

(Going to the countryside)
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EvanLewis19

What are the best deep-space objects to picture with my SeeStar S30 Pro?

I plan on spending more and more time in astrophotography, especially in the summer. I've already became much better that I started out as and I plan on using Siril for better post-processing. I primarily want to image nebula and galaxies, but i’m up for whatever. I am willing to spend ample imaging time on mostly anything in the night sky, so what would be most worth my time? Thanks to everyone for the support in my new journey!
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HAL1999

深空摄影这些相片上的斑纹是怎么回事?

近期拍摄深空天体的时候,照片上经常会出现一些位置相对固定的斑纹,很难处理掉。把照片强化之后,似乎是一些圆形的斑纹。拆开光害滤镜和相机(冷冻相机和光学滤镜一般就装在望远镜上,很少拆卸下来)好像也没有明显的灰尘。大概的原因是什么呢? 冷冻相机是ASI533PRO
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子非魚。

实拍作品被标注为ai生成是什么情况?

用DWARF3拍摄的作品上传到[梅西耶大满贯]板块,被标注为ai生成是什么意思? m94和m104
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耀扬

Seestar S30 需要加一个UHC滤镜吗?

各位星友老师好,用Seestar S30拍摄星云天体时,额外加一个UHC滤镜拍摄的效果会更好吗?如有用过的,推荐一下品牌型号呗。
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追星星的🦈

如何入坑天文摄影——滤镜通识(1)

讲完了赤道仪后,除了相机之外我们还有另外一个非常重要的配件需要提前拿出来讲,也就是滤镜。为什么要放在相机前面,因为对于滤镜的选择会直接影响到你应该选什么相机进行天文摄影。关于这Par的内容比较多,我尽量详尽! 本期主要讲的是滤镜的作用还有滤镜的种类,之后两期会讲彩机+双窄带与黑白+窄带的技术细节与使用场景的差别 滤镜在大部分人的概念里,可能是让照片“风格化”的一种工具。但在天文摄影里,我们可以先把滤镜简单理解为:只让特定波长范围的光通过的光学元件 光本质上是一种电磁波,不同颜色对应不同波长。普通摄影滤镜和天文滤镜的核心思路有相似之处:通过控制哪些波长的光能够进入相机,从而改变最终成像效果。只不过天文滤镜通常更加“精确”——它们依靠特殊的多层镀膜,只允许设计范围内的光线通过,并尽可能抑制其他不需要的波段,最终让特定波长的光子落到相机传感器上 记住这个原理后,我们把视角切换到宇宙当中 宇宙并不是完全空无一物,而是充满了极其稀薄的星际气体和尘埃。平时这些物质大多不会主动发光,但当附近存在年轻、炽热的大质量恒星,并释放出强烈紫外线时,周围的氢、氧、硫等气体就会被电离或激发,并在特定波长上发光,形成我们常说的发射星云 比如氢元素常见的 Hα,氧元素的 OIII,以及硫元素的 SII,都是天文摄影中非常重要的窄带信号。这也是为什么窄带滤镜能够把星云中不同元素、不同区域的结构“分离”出来。这里先挖个坑,待会儿我们去“鲨说天文”那里详细讲讲 当然,相机可以不加滤镜,直接对着发射星云曝光。但问题在于,绝大多数发射星云的光都非常微弱,很容易被城市光污染、月光、天空背景亮度,以及大量恒星的连续谱光线干扰。 所以窄带滤镜的核心作用就是:只保留星云在特定发射线上的光,同时压制大部分无关背景光,从而提高星云信号在照片中的对比度 不管你的目的是对抗城市光污染,还是后期进行 SHO、HOO 等伪彩色调色,窄带滤镜的本质都是在做同一件事: 让我们从复杂的宇宙背景中,把那些微弱但关键的星云信号“单独拎出来” -滤镜的种类-市面上彩机可用的滤镜有:HO 双波段窄带 SO 双波段窄带 RGB 三通道宽带市面上黑白相机可用的滤镜有:L R G B S H O,其中前三者是宽带当然以上种类还需要配以波长宽度来食用有 3、5、7、10nm 等等不胜枚举 有问题请留言,看见会尽快回复
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