How do I know if my images have been successful for the Grand Slam? I've entered several last Friday but I still only have two ticks out of the 110? Am I doing something wrong ?

After 5 yrs of Celestron evolution SCT 8" telescope - on to seestar 30'pro - just started - all images via pixinsight from 2 to 3 hours of imaging at 60" frames per object. comments welcome ! see ya Robin out of lochristi Belgium back yard . A pleasure to see so much hard stuff feom before being handled automatically !!

昨晚天气晴朗，好好的，今晚就是云遮月。几年一遇的最小满月可惜了。

久违的晴天

虽然多云，但但难掩我激动的心情，迫不及待拿出尘封半个月的S30Pro，找了下调色盘星云，可惜时间太晚已经被淹没在城市的楼群中，于是我打开stellarium，虽然seestar的星图也很好用，但还是略逊于这种开源免费的大型天文软件，往唯一有窗口，的东南方天空60°到85°天空寻找，最终找到了她，试拍下，嘿，还挺好看呢 于是开拍，睡觉

Did any of you ever see, or can reconfirm that when checking your friend's followers list, you see a lot of users that are actually already your friends, but the app is showing them as available to follow? Now since when you open their profile you see that they are showing as your friends, that makes it a bug, isn't it?

Is the dual narrowband filter and light pollution filter of seestar s50 the same thing?seestar s50的双窄带滤镜和光害滤镜是一个东西吗？

For me recently I stack it in siril with 1x drizzle at .9 pixel fraction and force 32 bit. Then stretch it until the nebula is barely visible (depends on object) then use seti astro shapening, then graxpert. Then I remove the stars and stretch the starless image. Then split the color channels and in pixelmath combine the G and B channels, call it O. Then do O minus the R/2-4(depends) and then mess with these in GIMP or pixelmath until I get a result I like, from there mess with the colors in gimp, recombine with the stars and run it through graxpert again if needed

I just found a quick hack to the process. 😁😁😁 Were you doing the polar alignment this way: Going to advance setting, > mount mode > switch > get polar align deviation. Waiting for the seestar to open its arm, take 3 pictures, platesolve them, then telling you how much deviation you have, correcting, then going back to alt-az, waiting the arm to close. And doing this process 2 or 3 times until you get the proper alignment. This can easily takes 10-15minutes. Then STOP! Do the process once, get your polar deviation, correct it. Then kill the app process on your phone. And just relaunch the app. You will be able to click again on get polar align deviation without closing the arm. And voila, you just save the time the arm takes to open and close. 😁😁😁😁😁

I would like to suggest the introduction of a new option (to my knowledge not existent) where optionally the user can set a time interval for auto focusing during the acquisition. In my experience it does help, at least if the temperature is changing. I have seen a big reduction in FWHM in post processing after a manual stop, AF and then continue acquiring. I did that because I was looking and noticed an image deterioration. But it would be nice to be able to program this. All remote telescopes I have used have this option.

Do you have to post your image so others can see it? I'm trying to gather the 8 moon images for the badge. Not sure everyone is interested in my images .

To clarify, I mean tools like Ai gradient correction and denoising.

I'm triying to create a google colab process to separate the fits per night, an also in files with maximum 300 fits , 2722 fits of 10 seconds

There is something extraordinary about capturing the light of stars and galaxies that began its journey long before we existed. Every image is a meeting point between technology, patience, and a deep sense of wonder for the Universe. Astrophotography is not just about creating beautiful images. It is about pausing for a moment, looking up, and realizing the immense scale of the cosmos and our place within it. Among billions of stars and galaxies, we gain a different perspective on time, distance, and existence itself. With every session, we are not merely capturing celestial objects; we are preserving stories written in light across thousands or even millions of years. In the silence of the cosmos, we find transcendence.

Hello experts. I have a Seestar S30 Pro and trying to move from the default Alt-Az mounting to EC using a Seestar TH10. Whenever I use the EC mount and line up my Lat of 50.5° and then do a Polar alignment. I get a green tick pass from the alignment when I'm within 0.5°. However, the scope rectangle once I have selected any target looks like this ( image), which seems strangely locked over to one side, that forces me to start framing in order to capture any large object. Can some wonderful person help out a learner who is frankly struggling with this issue. I am using 30 sec subs at the image comes out OK, Except it has to be framed each time to overcome this strange off centre image rectangle

Such a beautiful forecast ⬆️ Such a reality ⬇️

Hello, I recently bought a used Seestar S50 from a previous owner, and I would like to clean its internal storage before starting to use it myself. I connected the Seestar to my Mac via USB and I can see the internal storage in Finder. The top-level folders/files include, among others: MyWorksbatch_stack_tmpsolve_fail_imginit_crop1.jpginit_crop2.jpg After enabling hidden files on macOS, I also see system folders such as: .fseventsd.Spotlight-V100System Volume Information I understand that the hidden folders are probably created by macOS/Windows and are not Seestar data. Before deleting anything, I will of course make a full backup of the Seestar storage to my Mac. My questions are: Is there an official “factory reset” or “format internal storage” function for the Seestar S50?If yes, where is it located in the Seestar app?If not, is it safe to manually delete the contents of MyWorks in order to remove the previous owner’s images?Is it also safe to delete batch_stack_tmp and solve_fail_img, which look like temporary/diagnostic folders?Are there any folders or files that should definitely not be deleted manually? I do not want to reset the firmware or damage the device; I only want to remove the previous owner’s data and free the internal storage safely. Thank you for any advice.Best regards Claudio

窗外明明没有云朵，几个模型却显示多云观星条件差，AI最佳观星时间的分析却又与前几个模型矛盾，天文通怎么会这样？

This might be a silly question, but I am trying to decide between an ASI585MC Pro, ASI585MC Air Wireless and the ASI533MC Pro. What isn't clear is if I select the ASI585MC Air Wireless, will I still need to buy an ASIAIR controller, or does the air built into the camera replace the need for it? Further, will I be able to control an EFW and EAF connected to the USB ports on the ASI585MC Air Wireless camera in the same way as an ASI Controller? I presume both are done so via the App on a smartphone or tablet?

s30pro价格好像有优惠，不知道是不是又要有新品发布？