As you can see in the attached image, I often find myself in a situation where, at the start—before running “get polar align”—the tilt angle correctly matches the 44° of my latitude. But when I perform the polar alignment, I often get readings that deviate from this. It almost seems as though the angle indicated by the vertical arrow is at odds with the axis tilt angle. For example, in the photo, the vertical alignment is 0.0°, but the angle is 46° instead of 44°. Note that I have always used “refresh deviation” every time, as I know that these numbers otherwise depend on the internal gyroscope and not on plate solving.Thanks a lot for any hint!

Probably a silly question. Are the frames that are discarded during the app's stacking (enhancing) process still saved in the xxx_sub folder? So that I can review them later and possibly decide to reuse some of them with Siril postprocessing?

Before updating to version 3.2 of the app, I didn't do much testing with Auto DBE, but it seems to have been more effective than after the update. I'm not really sure if DBE is even doing anything, at least with the S30. I activate it during the capture process and also when editing the stacked photo, but it doesn't seem to do much. Does anyone know anything about this?

This is my second approach to NGC 7000, the North America Nebula, and probably one of the most demanding and rewarding projects I have processed so far.The idea behind this image started with curiosity: could I push the Seestar setup further by combining its internal LP/Hα-OIII data with external Askar Colour Magic C1 and C2 dual-band filters?After a lot of research online, I found many opinions suggesting that using the Askar C1 and C2 filters with this kind of setup would be unrealistic, difficult, or simply not worth it. In theory, it was almost an utopia.So I decided to test it myself.The result is this image.It required many hours of capture, several stacking tests, careful registration between different masters, gradient correction, spectral/flux calibration, channel recombination and a lot of trial and error. The hardest part was making the data from different filters work together naturally without destroying the signal or creating an artificial look.Integration detailsTotal integration time:24h 40m 50sSeestar LP / Hα-OIII: 741 frames Mixed exposures of 20s, 30s and 60s8h 15m 50sAskar Colour Magic C1 / Hα-OIII: 242 frames × 60s4h 02mAskar Colour Magic C2 / OIII-SII: 743 frames × 60s12h 23mThe final image is a combination of the Seestar LP/Hα-OIII data, the Askar C1 Hα/OIII signal and a recombined Askar C2 OIII/SII master, used to bring more separation, depth and structure to the nebula.This project took a lot of dedication, research and experimentation, but it also proved something important to me: sometimes the only way to know if something works is to try it yourself.Clear skies,João Palhota

After weeks and weeks of cloudy nights, I can finally pull out the telescopes again 🙏 I never thought this day would come 🥹

When the S50 moves to a new object the mounting plate on my fluid head accidentally pushes the reset button stopping my plan and the only way to escape the reset loop is to push the power button. I'm using a oversized plate on a Cayer H8 fluid head. This setup is very stable but this issue is unworkable. A smaller plate won't fit. Maybe using a fender washer to raise the s50 up? I think the problem may come back with this since there is a lot of forward pressure with the 41 degree angle. May have to abandon the fluid head and move to a wedge.

Hi everyone! Am I right in my understanding that one does not need direct view neither of zenith nor of North Star but simply of about 30° of the celestial meridian (great arc passing through North Star and zenith)? This is my understanding of the following option: Thanks a lot best regards and clear skies! Claudio

How do I know if my images have been successful for the Grand Slam? I've entered several last Friday but I still only have two ticks out of the 110? Am I doing something wrong ?

After 5 yrs of Celestron evolution SCT 8" telescope - on to seestar 30'pro - just started - all images via pixinsight from 2 to 3 hours of imaging at 60" frames per object. comments welcome ! see ya Robin out of lochristi Belgium back yard . A pleasure to see so much hard stuff feom before being handled automatically !!

昨晚天气晴朗，好好的，今晚就是云遮月。几年一遇的最小满月可惜了。

久违的晴天

虽然多云，但但难掩我激动的心情，迫不及待拿出尘封半个月的S30Pro，找了下调色盘星云，可惜时间太晚已经被淹没在城市的楼群中，于是我打开stellarium，虽然seestar的星图也很好用，但还是略逊于这种开源免费的大型天文软件，往唯一有窗口，的东南方天空60°到85°天空寻找，最终找到了她，试拍下，嘿，还挺好看呢 于是开拍，睡觉

Did any of you ever see, or can reconfirm that when checking your friend's followers list, you see a lot of users that are actually already your friends, but the app is showing them as available to follow? Now since when you open their profile you see that they are showing as your friends, that makes it a bug, isn't it?

Is the dual narrowband filter and light pollution filter of seestar s50 the same thing?seestar s50的双窄带滤镜和光害滤镜是一个东西吗？

For me recently I stack it in siril with 1x drizzle at .9 pixel fraction and force 32 bit. Then stretch it until the nebula is barely visible (depends on object) then use seti astro shapening, then graxpert. Then I remove the stars and stretch the starless image. Then split the color channels and in pixelmath combine the G and B channels, call it O. Then do O minus the R/2-4(depends) and then mess with these in GIMP or pixelmath until I get a result I like, from there mess with the colors in gimp, recombine with the stars and run it through graxpert again if needed

I just found a quick hack to the process. 😁😁😁 Were you doing the polar alignment this way: Going to advance setting, > mount mode > switch > get polar align deviation. Waiting for the seestar to open its arm, take 3 pictures, platesolve them, then telling you how much deviation you have, correcting, then going back to alt-az, waiting the arm to close. And doing this process 2 or 3 times until you get the proper alignment. This can easily takes 10-15minutes. Then STOP! Do the process once, get your polar deviation, correct it. Then kill the app process on your phone. And just relaunch the app. You will be able to click again on get polar align deviation without closing the arm. And voila, you just save the time the arm takes to open and close. 😁😁😁😁😁

I would like to suggest the introduction of a new option (to my knowledge not existent) where optionally the user can set a time interval for auto focusing during the acquisition. In my experience it does help, at least if the temperature is changing. I have seen a big reduction in FWHM in post processing after a manual stop, AF and then continue acquiring. I did that because I was looking and noticed an image deterioration. But it would be nice to be able to program this. All remote telescopes I have used have this option.

Do you have to post your image so others can see it? I'm trying to gather the 8 moon images for the badge. Not sure everyone is interested in my images .