Today I tried to use my Seestar in EQ mode. For your information, there was no wind today, or if there was, it was so weak that it was not felt, I think, a maximum of 2 m/s. As you can see, the stars are very blurred, so I have not received a single picture with an exposure of more than 1 minute. I used 20s exposure. I tried to align the telescope four times in total, restarted the device, but nothing helped. Absolutely nothing has changed. Please, give me advice, I hope I haven't bothered you with my regular questions yet...

Someone on Facebook replied to a post of mine comparing S30pro images to s50 of M51. He suggested I make a folder named mosaic_m51 on the S30pro and put the "lights" from the S30pro and the s50 in it. Then run deep sky stacker through the app. So I did this. I had my doubts. First of all about 16 files had the same name so I let windows rename the s50 dupes( just dupe names). I ran the stacker and, of course, 1/2 the files were rejected. And the stack looked awful. This doesn't work. Did he mean DSS in windows? Or DSS not by ZWO? Or was this just a facebook punk that was full of BS?

I am currently at 2/3 complete of the MGS. I'm 5 months in, I can't imagine doing this in 1 night!

C/2026 a1 (maps) is almost here! I made a little paragraph on what I researched note I'm not proffesional this is just from my research: “c/2026 a1 (maps) has a good probability of becoming significant and brighter then Venus a few after perhillion. However many sungrazers dont always survive perhillion, here’s what we know; this comet is around 0.4km (400 meters) of a nucleus. Its distance to the sun during perhillion is around 0.005732 AU away (AU = Astronomical Units, where 1 AU = the sun distance to the earth), where a comet called “c/2011 w3 (lovejoy)” came around a similar distance of 0.0055~AU, with a similar nucleus size(100-500m) and survived but partially fragmented later on. So the comet has a chance of either completely disintegrating, partially fragmenting, or staying intact(highest chance is fragmenting). Itll be low on the horizon as well close to the sun, favored south hemisphere. Next the tail. If it stays intact and survives, based on geometric data, orbital plane alignment to earth and overall angular calculation, the comet will most likely have a pencil, straight narrow tail like comet lovejoy 2011 did. However, if it does fragment, this would cause multiple pieces of dust production which can create multiple pencils at different angles, which is similar to comet c/2006 p1 (mcnaught), a comet who had a fan striated dust tail. additional info, this comet reaches perhillion April 4,2026, and was discovered on January 13th, 2026, from “AMACS1 Observatory, Atacama Desert, Chile”, discovers being Alain Maury, Daniel Parrott, Florian Signoret (MAPS team). It is a kreutz sungrazer family group, comets that go very close to the sun, with the origin being a large comet who broke into many small pieces creating all these comets. this comets orbital period is estimated to be about 1,700~ years, with inclination being ~144.5 degrees. However, comet magnitude is uncertain and comet tail morphology is uncertain as factors such as dust production, solar wind interaction, particles sizes, rotation, etc. arent really easily predictable. Comet behavior is also unpredictable and wild. I wrote this conclusion 10:52 pm, March 30, 2026.”

Tonight, I set Seestar to shoot Deep Sky objects again. But after AI denoise of the first shot... ...these strange specks appeared. I tried to wipe the lens, it didn't help. Give me some advice, please

If so, what is your experience with them and do they function well. Thanks!

I’ve been looking for a telescope that is controlled by a app, tracks whatever you’re looking at and is good at planetary photography/videos dose anyone know of any that can do that, I know that the Seestar S30 and S50 can do that but is not good with planetary objects

this is my experience on astrophotography, balance to center is very important, this is what i did, especially for s50 users, use L-bracket to make the machine close to the center of gravity. i like to tune the polar alignment to 0.0 / 0.0, so wedge is also needed. the metal ring (around 1mm thickness, mine is 10x30x1.5) on the back is needed, i dont know it's my s30 pro or design problem, the plate attached to the bottom will easy collision the outer white plastic area(mostly backlash problem), that's why the tracking sometimes got startrail, hope this can help everyone to improve the tracking accuracy

1) 使用微動雲台 (近數年叫緯度調節座) (約$400) 如果是使用eqmode操作，強烈建議使用微動雲台，因為對極時可以微調角度，波頭也不是不可以但會浪費很多時間(可能自己有強迫症多數會對極到0.0/0.0準確度XDD)。建議使用Arca Swiss快裝板款，一思佛SEM3那款300g左右很不錯，接近也有一款有寫明適合Seestar使用，淘寶搜尋"seestar緯度調節座"便會找到。 2) 使用L架 (約$15) 習慣了操作赤道儀/追星儀時很注重平衡，將重心集中在腳架中間，所以對於這類智能望遠鏡的重心擺放也十分在意。眼見多年不少人的擺放方式側向一邊，隨時「反艇」也在所難免。加上L架後，其實可以盡量將重心變回中間位，增加追蹤時的穩定性。但要記L架要一邊短身，不可以長過到達鏡頭位置，否則某些角度會產生碰撞。我使用S30 Pro那款為75*110mm，S50為75*133mm需要長一點款式，淘寶或拼多多有售。S30 Pro用了後可以放入原裝包包上不佔位置。 3) 加墊片 (約$5十塊) S30 Pro底部負責RA軸的底盤，其實太貼近機殼，簡單的裝上快裝板，也有機會與邊位白色位置產生磨擦，阻礙追蹤，不知是個別還是設計問題，造成拉線情況。總之要運作順暢，可簡單加上1mm左右厚墊片，我買的是10*30*1.5款，內圈10mm外圈30mm厚度1.5mm。